Replace a shower seal: step-by-step guide

What you actually need

Replacing a shower seal is one of the easiest bathroom repairs there is. You need:

• the new seal (matching the glass thickness and profile type — see configurator)
• a cutter knife or sharp scissors
• a hairdryer (optional, helps with very stiff old profiles)
• 15–30 minutes

You do not need a drill, screwdriver or silicone gun. Modern shower seals are click-in profiles.

Before you start: have the right seal

Sounds obvious, but it's mistake #1: buying the wrong seal because the glass thickness wasn't measured.

Mandatory pre-purchase check:

1. Measure the glass thickness (6, 8, 10 or 12 mm) — guide: Determine glass thickness
2. Identify the profile type (magnetic, lip, U-profile, water deflector)
3. Measure the length + plan 10 % reserve

When in doubt, launch the configurator. Based on your shower, it suggests the right profile and calculates the length.

The 7 steps

Step 1 — Work dry

Dry the glass and the profile area thoroughly. A wet seal is hard to remove, and the new one must be set on dry glass — otherwise it slides.

Step 2 — Remove the old seal

Find the end of the old seal. With click-in profiles you'll usually find it at one of the glass ends — the seal is simply cut off there.

Grip the seal at this end and pull steadily along the profile track. If it sits firmly: warm it briefly with the hairdryer to 60–80 °C — the material becomes elastic and releases more easily.

Caution with old magnetic seals: some have an inner groove that can jam. Don't yank it out — that bends the aluminium profile.

Step 3 — Clean the profile groove

Wipe the profile groove (the channel where the seal was sitting) with a damp microfibre cloth. Treat any mould with mould remover and rinse thoroughly.

Let it dry. Important: if mould residue remains in the groove, it will infect the new seal within weeks.

Step 4 — Cut the new seal

Lay the new seal along the profile groove and mark the correct length. Don't cut tight: leave 2–3 mm reserve — you can trim later.

Cut with the cutter knife. Important: cut straight, not at an angle — otherwise gaps form at the profile end.

Step 5 — Thread the starting piece

For click-in profiles: push one end of the seal into the profile groove. The first piece is often the hardest because the material has no anchor yet. Press evenly with your thumb.

For magnetic seals: make sure the magnet side faces the inside of the door. Wrong magnet orientation = door won't close.

Step 6 — Roll out along the length

Press the seal into the groove segment by segment. Work evenly, without pulling — pulled seals contract afterwards and leave open ends.

For longer runs (floor seal over 1.5 m): ideally work as a pair — one holds the other end under tension.

Step 7 — Final check

Close the door. Does it close properly? Magnetic seals should produce a clear "click" or solid stop. If the door swings through, the magnet alignment is wrong — re-check step 5.

Let the glass dry for 24 hours and run a test: hot water for 5 minutes, then check that it stays dry.

Common mistakes — and how to avoid them

| Mistake | Consequence | Fix | |---|---|---| | Wrong glass thickness | Seal too loose or too tight | Measure with a calliper before buying | | Cut at an angle | Water leaks at the end | Mark with a ruler, cut straight | | Too short | Last 2 cm exposed | Plan 10 % reserve | | Magnet inverted | Door won't close | Magnet side facing inside (test with a spoon) | | Mould not removed | Re-infection within weeks | Clean profile groove thoroughly before installation | | On wet glass | Seal slides | Dry the glass before installation |

What does the replacement cost?

• Material: €10–30 per profile (magnet, lip, floor seal — depending on brand and length)
• Tools: cutter knife and hairdryer are in most homes (otherwise ~ €15 together)
• Time: 15–30 minutes per seal

For comparison: a plumber typically charges €80–150 to replace a shower seal (call-out + material + hourly rate). DIY saves you €70–130.

When to call a pro

• Glass wobbles or hinge has play → not a seal problem
• Magnet detaches from the aluminium profile → frame broken
• Level-floor shower where the floor-to-wall seal leaks

In all other cases: go ahead. If you can install two drawers, you can replace a shower seal.

→ Ready? Launch the configurator — we'll suggest the right seal in 90 seconds.