STEIGNERShower Door Seals: the right seal for your glass shower door
If water escapes down the side or over the top of your shower door, the seal is almost always worn, hard or the wrong size. Which shower door seal you need comes down to two things: the door type (pivot, sliding or bi-fold) and the glass thickness.
For pivot, sliding and bi-fold glass shower doors from 4 to 10 mm glass.
Not sure which seal you need?
The configurator takes you to the right shower seal in under 90 seconds — by shower type, glass thickness and door type.
The seal profiles at a glance
These profile types are used for “Shower Door Seal” — each shown as a cross-section.
Magnetic seal
Lip seal
Bottom seal
Popular profiles on Amazon
STEIGNER
DOPPOSODOPPOSO Duschdichtung 2 × 80 cm, 4–6 mm Glas, mit Lippe
QOROCOQOROCO Duschdichtung 2 × 80 cm, 4–6 mm Glas, extra lange Gummilippe (20 mm)
Which shower door seal for which door?
Pivot and hinged doors almost always close onto a magnetic seal: two magnetic profiles on the door and fixed panel pull together and seal the vertical gap. If the old magnetic strip sits loose or the door no longer clicks shut, the magnet has usually failed or the profile has warped.
Sliding and bi-fold doors have no magnetic contact, so they use a lip (wiper) seal: a soft TPE or silicone lip that presses against the glass or wall. At the base, a separate bottom seal stops water running out under the door.
Measure the glass thickness and gap first
The number-one buying mistake is the wrong glass thickness. Measure the edge with a caliper in a few places (4, 6, 8 or 10 mm are common in the UK and US) and pick a profile with the matching tolerance. An 8 mm seal on 6 mm glass sits loose and leaks; the wrong way round it will not push on.
The second value is the gap size: the distance the lip has to bridge between door and fixed panel. A lip that is too short will not close a large gap even if the glass thickness is right. Measure it on the old seal or across the gap with the door shut.
Coming soon
Explainer clip coming soon
An animated step-by-step guide to “Shower Door Seal” — which profile fits and how to replace it — is on the way.
Frequently asked questions
The 4 most common questions, answered.
How do I know which shower door seal I need?+
It depends on the door type and glass thickness. Pivot and hinged doors use a magnetic seal; sliding and bi-fold doors use a lip (wiper) seal, plus a bottom seal at the base. Then match the glass thickness (4/6/8/10 mm) and the gap the seal has to bridge. Measure the old seal or use our configurator to get a matched profile.
How do I replace a shower door seal?+
Modern shower door seals are push-on strips, so no tools or silicone are needed. Pull off the old seal, wipe the channel clean and dry, cut the new strip to length with a craft knife, then push it on and press it home. For a stiff old profile, warm it gently with a hairdryer first.
Are magnetic shower door seals better than rubber ones?+
They do different jobs. A magnetic shower door seal pulls a pivot door shut and seals the vertical gap; a plain rubber or lip seal suits sliding and bi-fold doors that have no magnet. Both wear out — when the lip goes hard, cracks or the magnet weakens, replace like for like in the correct glass thickness.
Will a universal shower door seal fit my door?+
Universal seals cover many common sizes but not every brand. Check the glass-thickness tolerance and the door type. Branded enclosures (Kermi, Hüppe, Schulte and similar) sometimes need the original profile or a verified universal match. Our configurator filters to compatible profiles only.
Related topics
Also searched as
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